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(12) Crossing the Line -- Sabbath on board ship
-- Funerals
at Sea -- Cape of Good Hope [[55-60]]
[*crossing the equator*;
*funerals
at sea*; *the Cape*]
[[55]] A few days before an arrival on this coast, when it
comes within
the scope of the voyage, the usual ceremonies attendant upon crossing
the
Line are duly observed. Those who have never sailed so far to the
southward
are impressed with the belief that sundry operations by no means
pleasant
are to take place. Among other things, they may expect to be suspended
from the fore-yard-arm, and thoroughly ducked by frequent dips into the
sea.
However unreasonable this may appear, there exists no doubt of such
a practice having been perfectly common about sixty years ago. It was
then
regarded as an excellent joke, affording wonderous merriment to the
veteran
part of the crew. In time, the practice ceased; either from the
interposition
of good sense, or owing to the judicious distribution of some liquor
among
the chiefs of the dramatis personae.
Williamson 1810 vol. 1: ((66))
The amusements
incident on this occasion are not very tedious, and though filthy in
the
extreme, cannot be witnessed without exciting much laughter. About
noon,
the boatswain, being full dressed as the god of the ocean, is supposed
to hail the ship, enquiring whence she comes? whither she is bound? and
if any persons are on board who never before crossed the great boundary
dividing the northern from the southern hemisphere? After much pompous
and authoritative elocution, wherein Neptune declares a firm resolution
not to relinquish his rights, he ascends at the bow, under which his
car
is supposed to be in waiting, whence, attended by his mates, whose
paraphernalia
accord with the dignity of their office and the solemnity of the
occasion,
he proceeds to the quarter- ((67)) deck, where, after an
appropriate
speech, he exercises his powers of divination, and in a few minutes
discovers
the several novices who are to submit to his decrees.
His god-head, like his progenitor of ancient times,
invariably has an
eye to business; and as the sea deity of the Greeks was supposed to
delight
in ample sacrifices, so does his descendant, or rather his
representative,
of our time, equally cherish the idea of copious libations in honor of
the day. Hence, there is little difficulty in appeasing his wrath, and
conciliating his good-will towards the vessel and her crew, by the
immolation
of from two to three gallons each, of good rum or gin; which, being
duly
tendered to the officiating priests, soon reach their destination, and
avert the threatened danger.
While this is going on, some of the old hands are busied
in the construction
of a ship, which is to be launched in the presence of the deity, under
whose auspices she is to sail the world over, and back again, in
perfect
safety! This important duty is conducted with great precision, and
takes
place in the lee-waist, where all the novices among the sailors,
recruits,
&c. are ranged in two rows, face to face, to represent the ribs of
the stately Argo.
It is usual to select some of the more pliant, or silly,
of the party,
to form the head and bows: one of these being placed in the centre,
looking
((68)) forward, his head covered with a long swab, of which the threads
hang down nearly to his heels, and his face being smeared with all the
filth the ship affords, by way of paint, is considered the typical
figure
suited to the nomenclature of the vessel.
All being in readiness, the builders attend Neptune as
he retires, in
order to allow the shoars to be knocked away, that the launch may take
place: the captain and his officers aid the farce by encouraging the
passengers
to advance towards the waist, there to view the construction; when, at
a fit moment, the god roars forth his mandate for committing his
protege
to the deep.
It, however, unluckily happens that the vessel does not
shew any disposition
to quit the stocks; therefore, as she will not proceed to the water,
the
only chance of setting her afloat is by causing the water to proceed to
her; which it accordingly does from some dozens of buckets, &c.,
previously
secreted in the fore and main tops, and in the long boat, for that
purpose.
This drenching concludes the show, and the crew retire to make merry
upon
the amount of their collections, which, when not sufficiently abundant
to afford a moderate allowance to each, is liberally augmented from the
ship's stores.
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The Sabbath is always observed on board every Indiamen with perfect
decorum. Having no chaplain on board, unless perchance as a passenger,
the captain, or one of the officers, reads the morning service,
succeeded
by a short lecture suited to the audience, who consist of all on board
not confined by illness. The decency prevailing on such occasions is
exemplary;
the whole standing bare-headed on the quarter-desk and refraining from
every act or look that might trespass on propriety.
Williamson 1810 vol. 1: ((69))
Many sailors, notwithstanding
the character in which they are generally accepted, are of a very
religious
disposition, and are easily led by those who shew a reverence for the
church
establishment. Yet like most persons bred up in ignorance, they are
shamefully
superstitious, and often entertain notions very little short of those
which
actuated their ancestors to throw Jonah overboard. However ridiculous
it
may appear, yet it is strictly true that among hundreds of the bravest
tars, one wag may, by whisperings, groanings, &c., aided by a white
sheet, and a hollow intonation, create a most disgraceful panic.
But our terrestrial population, of corresponding rank,
can claim no
title to laugh at their peers on the element. The sermon lately
delivered
and printed by the Rev. Isaac Nicholson, A. M., Curate of Great Paxton,
in the county of Huntingdon, in consequence of two attacks on the
person
of Ann Izzaard, a reputed witch, whereby Alice Russel, who endeavored
to
protect that poor woman, was destroyed, ((70)) evinces the deplorable
state
in which the minds of our lower orders remain, notwithstanding the
great
expense incurred for the propagation of the Scriptures among them, and
the infinite pains taken to instruct those who cannot afford to pay for
education.
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Funerals at sea can rarely boast of much display, but their attendants
are often sincere mourners. Confined [[56]] within a narrow
space,
the loss of a companion is not easily forgotten, while every object
reminds
us of his fate.
Williamson 1810 vol. 1: ((70))
Few linger, either
of disease or of wounds, so long as persons under similar circumstances
would do on shore. The want of room, of fresh air, of clean linen, of
suitable
diet, and of a change of scene, all contribute, notwithstanding the
most
assiduous attendance, to depress the spirits, and to aggravate the
symptoms.
Above all, the ravages of scurvy are peculiarly distressing, and tend
most
to dishearten; even those in perfect health become alarmed, and from
that
circumstance alone, often participate in the dreadful evil.
It being utterly inadmissible that a corpse should be
retained on board,
no time is lost in sewing it up in a hammock, placing a few lumps of
coal,
or other ponderous matter, at the feet, to cause its sinking. Thus
prepared,
it is laid upon a grating at the lee gang-way; and after the usual
burial
service, at which all attend, is ((71)) committed to the deep.
In some instances, during calms, sharks have been seen
to dart from
under the vessel, and to attack the corpse in the most ravenous manner.
It is well known that all sickly ships are attended by many of those
fishes;
which, if numerous in the vicinity of a healthy vessel, are, in the
opinions
of the crew, the surest indications of great mortality on board.
Without
pretending to doubt the acuteness of a shark's sense of smelling, it
may
be permitted us rather to ascribe their congregating to chance, than to
their supposed powers of anticipation: at the same time there can be
little
doubt, that certain effluvia must escape from a vessel not duly
purified
by ventilation and ablution; and that such a neglect will rarely fail
to
induce diseases of the most malignant description; thereby giving a
latitude,
among those who view things superficially, to adduce instances
apparently
confirmative of their assertions.
Whatever convenience it may be thought to afford to the
survivors, it
appears to me that the customary sale of all the effects of the
deceased,
indiscriminately in general, is contrary to the dictates of prudence,
so
far as relates to salubrity. That in such a situation whatever is
appreciable
may produce a better price, cannot be controverted; but I should rather
incline to think it were better to forego that advantage, than to risk
the dissemination of disease, though ((78)) not previously malignant,
by
an unlimited distribution of the apparel of one demising under any
clinical
distemper. To say the least, perfect ventilation should be given to
every
atom; nor would the trouble or expense (if any) of fumigating the
wearing
apparel and bed-clothes, be ill bestowed: perhaps baking would be found
tbe safest precaution.
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It has already been stated that in rounding the Cape, the weather
may be expected to correspond with the season of the year. This is so
well
understood, that only during the summer season in that quarter are
vessels
considered safe in Table Bay, situated to the north of a low, flat,
sandy
isthmus, over which the sea appears to have flowed formerly into False
Bay, lying a few miles to the southward.
The mouths of the two bays have different aspects. Thus when
that channel
existed, the Table Mountain, whence the northerly bay derives its
designation,
together with Cape Town, which stands between the mountain and that
bay,
together with Wineburg, Wittiboom, Constantia, &c. &c.,
including
a length of about forty-five miles by four, on an average, in breadth,
must have been insulated.
When a ship is to touch at the Cape, it is very desirable on every
account that her arrival should take place during the summer season, so
that she may come to anchor in Table Bay, about half a mile distant
from
the wharf. The convenience thus afforded, of going immediately into
comfortable
lodgings, where nothing is wanting which can tend to the refreshment of
persons fatigued by a confinement within such narrow limits, probably
for
ten or twelve weeks, is not to be calculated.
Williamson 1810 vol. 1: ((73))
The Dutch, it is
true, are most offensively avaricious; but that must be compounded for,
in consideration of the satisfaction attendant upon the liberty of
taking
exercise in a fine climate, abounding with the most delicious fruits,
the
choicest vegetables, and that kind of social intercourse which, chasing
away the recollection of former langour, gives energy to meet
succeeding
dulness and inactivity.
The British visitor will, however, experience
considerable disappointment
if he expects to witness the performance of dramatic pieces, or that
jocund
hilarity which with us prevails among persons long resident together.
On
the contrary: the inhabitants of Cape Town think of nothing but
money-making;
in which they are neither inexpert, nor very scrupulous. In public,
they
are so awkward, stiff, and unsociable, that. I have often been
surprised
they did not go to sleep at their visits.
If such was the state of society only a few years ago,
what must it
have been previous to the occupation of the Cape, during ((74)) the
American
war, by two French regiments; which, according to the confession of the
Dutch themselves, made a very considerable improvement in their breed?
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Few of those who take lodgers will admit such as do not board with
them. The rates are not fixed, but the average may be taken at from
three
to four rix-dollars for each lady or gentleman, half-price for young
children,
and one dollar for each servant, per diem. Thus a single
gentleman
must be an economist, to pay his expenses of board, washing,
horse-hire,
&c., under thirty [[57]] shillings daily. The rix-dollar is fixed
at
four shillings; but is an imaginary sum. Notes of any value may be had;
but gold and silver currency are scarcely ever seen; the Dutch being
extremely
eager to obtain guineas at twenty-one shillings currency, and re-sell
them
at the rate generally of six and a half or seven rix-dollars.
Persons visiting the Cape should be careful to reserve their
cash till
about to pay their bills, and then to account their gold coin at its
current
value, as above shewn. Such is the estimation in which bullion is held,
that no small coins are any where to be seen; even shillings and
silvers
are paid in paper currency. Passengers from India ought to take a bag
of
rupees of the worst description; for whether (sikku) sicca or (trisoolee)
tersooly, such will be gladly received, without distinction, at two
shillings
and sixpence.
The cookery of the Dutch is nearly on a par with their
flesh-meats.
Their beef, mutton, veal, and pork, is rarely of tolerable quality, and
invariably made to float in strong sauce, of which butter and spices
are
the chief ingredients. The table is, in most houses, laid in [a]
central
hall, looking into a garden. The floors are all painted, that they may
not absorb the damp when washed, as they are almost daily; the beds
tolerably
good, and the apartments of a moderate size.
Before every house is an elevated terrace, on a level with the
ground-floor,
having at each end a seat, usually of masonry also. On this terrace,
called
the steupe, the Dutch promenade half the day in fair weather, enjoying
their pipes, and occasionally taking their sopkies. These are small
glasses
of raw spirits, for the most part hollands, which their servants
tender,
at intervals, as a matter of course.
The extensive gardens of the late Dutch Company, [[58]]
through the
centre of which is a broad gravel-walk, full half a mile in length, are
crowded, on Sunday evenings and on all festive days, by a promiscuous
[=mixed]
group, walking under the shade of the oaks and other trees planted on
either
side. There is also an institution, but of a more private nature, and
frequented
with few exceptions by the Dutch only. It is held at a neat house,
where
wines, &c., are sold, having attached to it a spacious garden; not
unlike some of our tea-drinking places in the vicinity of London, and
is
called Concordia.
Williamson 1810 vol. 1: ((76))
This is called
Concordia; a name perfectly unsuited to the scenes occasionally
disgracing
the interior, which has more than once excited the attention of our
government,
in consequence of the seditious principles of its visitors.
The late Lord Macartney did not fail to keep a watchful
eye over Concordia,
as well as to check in their infancy whatever attempts might be made to
spread, and to inculcate, revolutionary principles. A large portion of
the inhabitants being descended from delinquents who had quitted their
native country, as Gil Blas says, 'not without good reason', and having
rarely paid much deference to their rulers in Europe, it is not to be
wondered
at, that those doctrines of the mountain which condemned Louis the XVI
should have been adopted at the Cape.
Such was the advance made in the cant of the day, and so
numerous were
the meetings at Concordia, that Lord Macartney judged it necessary to
adopt
measures for bringing his Dutch subjects to their senses; which he did
in a manner that reflected the greatest credit on himself, and evinced
with ((77)) what facility traitors may be subdued under a just and
energetic
government....
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Many of the farms, within a morning's ride, are well worth
seeing, not as objects of imitation, but as displaying much novelty,
and
affording a just idea of the character of a Dutch agriculturist in that
quarter. The vineyards and depots of wine at Constantia are remarkable;
especially considering that the soil which produces that luscious wine
is confined to a very few acres, probably not more than forty; beyond
which,
sets from the same vines, under circumstances of perfect equality, in
regard
to site and culture, produce a very different liquor, little superior
to
that sold at the several wine-houses at sixpence per quart, and
possessing
a peculiar terraceous flavour, which does not diminish by keeping.
The stranger not habituated to the use of the Cape wines,
either white
or red, should be extremely cautious on his first arrival to avoid
them;
and to drink port. A neglect of this precaution will produce
considerable
inconvenience, and may be attended with habitual diarrhoea.
Many whalers frequent the coast to the eastward of the Cape,
where they
kill numbers of the white species, which supply spermaceti and the oil
bearing that name. In False Bay, including a space at least equal to
two
hundred square miles, black whales may often be seen [[59]] sporting
about;
as, indeed, they may in Table Bay, close in among the rocks, about half
a mile below the fort. A few are killed by the crews of such ships as
have
not been so fortunate as to be filled with the former kind; but this
seems
almost as much for pastime as profit: the oil extracted from black
whales
being very low in price; as neither burning well, nor making so good
soap
as the spermaceti kind.
Although the winter months are held to be very dangerous for
vessels
riding in Table Bay, from the dreadful swell sometimes setting in from
the north-west, towards which it is much exposed, it is, however, rare
that vessels are lost therein during that season. This may, no doubt,
be
attributed to their very short stay, as they usually proceed to
Seamon's
Bay, the inhabited part of which is about twenty-five miles from Cape
Town.
The
Sceptre, of 64 guns, together with a Danish 74, and about ten or
twelve
other vessels, were wrecked in Table Bay on the 5th of November 1799; a
period when a gale of wind from the north-west is never expected.
To make up for the deficiency, that part of the year is
attended with
very stiff breezes from the south-east, which drive up the small gravel
against one's face with such force as to give most acute pain. These
south-easters,
as they are called, certainly produce excellent effects: cooling the
air,
and destroying a vast number of insects.
Nature has been truly liberal in the profusion of flowers she
has scattered
throughout this part of Africa. The plains are covered with heaths, or
heathers, of an exquisite fragrance, of boundless variety, and of the
most
delicate colouring and formation. The whole country, where the soil is
not absolutely barren, teems with all that could enrich a
pleasure-garden.
Among these, the [[60]] wild geraniums bear a large proportion: the
plain
beyond the camp at Wineburg absolutely resembling a rich carpet!
Williamson 1810 vol. 1: ((84))
The Cape, considered
as a colony, cannot be said, at present, to be valuable in any respect,
except as an asylum for shipping, homeward or outward bound. The
supplies
requisite for the town are derived from the labors of a few boors
[=Boers?],
settled at some distance. Hence, provisions are by no means cheap; nor
would they be so, even if the demands of St. Helena could be answered
from
any other quarter; since the indolence of the Dutch agriculturists
would,
it is to be feared, cause them to limit their operations in proportion
as the consumption might decrease.
It is, doubtless, owing to some such cause, that the
greater part of
the slaves are maintained upon a very black, heavy kind of bread, on
which
the fat of sheeps' tails is smeared, as a substitute for butter; and
that
the lower classes of the population live in the most wretched manner.
This
should seem inexcusable, where thousands of acres of good soil lie
unheeded,
within such a moderate distance of the town as could scarcely fail to
repay
the ordinary expences of cultivation....
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Few ships remain long enough to allow of passengers proceeding
to the interior; where, however, they would find much to admire. At
some
of the farms they may be well accommodated, with the great advantage of
finding their purses far less burdensome on their return. The famous
vineyards
of Stellenbosch are well worth seeing, as is the Salt Lake, which
annually
dries, leaving a bed of muriate of soda many miles in diameter, and of
unknown depth. Surely, in parts accounted sterile, such a depot of
manure
ought not to be overlooked.
The hot baths, situated in a most romantic valley, about forty
miles
from the Cape, demand the traveller's attention. Whether he proceed on
horseback or in a waggon, a gun will be useful, on account of the
prodigious
quantity of game of every description, and as a defence against the
numerous
wild beasts which infest all the woody country beyond Hottentot
Holland.
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