A French view of the clothing styles of the Golkonda kings; a plate from Racinet, 1888
Source: ebay, Dec. 2001
From the original description:
"The illustrations here show the last chiefs of the Hindustani Kingdom of Telingana, of which Golconde was the capital...
ON THE LEFT:
Djihan-Khan, wearing an unusual turban, quite unlike that worn by Muslims
in that it comes over the forehead in a point. Made of fine silk, it is
held in place by a golden ribbon with pearls and an emerald in the centre.
At its top is a golden jewel, representing the sun, set with large
rubies; this fastens a spray of fine feathers that bend
down under the weight of two diamonds. A band of pearls and fine stones
is attached at the base of the feathers and hangs down on either side of
the turban like a necklace. An under-jerkin covers all the upper body,
and is fastened by a belt at the waist. Rich and poor alike wear this type
of costume, designed to give protection against the sudden changes of weather
characteristic of the region. Wide silk trousers taper down beneath the
jerkin to a narrow fit at the ankle. Then come velvet slippers, slightly
turned up at the toes and leaving the heels exposed. Over this costume,
Djihan-Khan wears a wide robe of an almost transparent muslin, held
by a silver-plated belt that is inset with precious stones. Beneath
it are two sashes of cashmere with gold bordering - a badge of rank.
ON THE RIGHT:
Schah-Soliman, carrying a shield made of rhinoceros hide and decorated
with six metal rivets. This Rajput is smelling a flower: a reminder of
the interest that Indians of rank showed in perfume."
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